I frequently hike in the proposed wilderness area. (http://www.oregonwild.org/wilderness/devils_staircase, http://www.cascwild.org/protecting-forests-and-wild-places/protect-devils-staircase/ ). I was kindly introduced to the area in late 2007 and have been exploring mainly Wassen Creek ever since. Occasionally I lead public hikes, usually exploring new sections each time. I try not to go to the same place more than twice. There’s plenty to explore. Much is too rigorous to take people whose hiking ability I have not before seen. I often get asked for information and advice, ranging from how to get there, available maps, and specific places to go, and various suggestions on hiking routes.
I have decided to collect much of the information I have found over the past several years and place it in one spot, i.e. on this blog. In no way is this meant to be an exhaustive listing. So here we go …
A nice collection of photos and information can be found here: http://www.devilsstaircasewilderness.org.
Information in print form can be found in the following books; check out a public library.
Sherry Wellborn (editor). (1980 & 1982). Oregon Coast Range Wilderness.
Wendell Wood. (1991). A Walking Guide to Oregon’s Ancient Forests.
William Sullivan. (2009). Atlas of Oregon Wilderness.
You can read newsprint articles and commentary here:
http://www.eugeneweekly.com/2007/11/15/outdoors.html
http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/segments/view/1729
http://www.eugeneweekly.com/2009/06/25/coverstory.html
http://projects.registerguard.com/csp/cms/sites/web/updates/14949830-55/story.csp
http://projects.registerguard.com/csp/cms/sites/web/updates/15592870-55/story.csp
http://www.oregonlive.com/O/index.ssf/2009/07/devils_staircase.html
You can read about other hikers’ experiences here:
http://www.eugeneweekly.com/2007/11/15/outdoors.html
http://www.portlandhikers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3622
http://www.portlandhikers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&p=30406
http://www.portlandhikers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5269&hilit=devils+staircase
http://www.portlandhikers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6603&hilit=devils+staircase
http://www.portlandhikers.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13703&hilit=devils+staircase
http://woodlandwalks.blogspot.com/2009/11/devils-staircase-ordeal.html
http://liefphotos.blogspot.com/2010/05/devils-staircase.html
http://footprints-claudio.blogspot.com/2012/11/devils-staircase-sep-8th.html
http://davemetzblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/devils-staircase.html
http://davemetzblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/devils-staircase-waterfall.html
http://davemetzblog.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-climb-out-of-devils-staircase.html
Here is my advice for those wishing to explore. First, remember all those warning/liability statements at the beginning to any hiking/outdoors book? That applies to this advice as well. With that in mind …
Transportation: I am reminding you here that with any travel in this area, you are traveling at your own risk. Any storm can produce new downed trees, washed out roads, and impassible mid road VW Beetle sized boulders. This can impede your travel in, and often more importantly, your way out. My only (so far) trip involving a downed tree occurred in early summer, so be prepared regardless of season. Carry a shovel and axe or large handsaw at a minimum. If you have a chainsaw, I’d bring it. Sometimes a two cable/strap is handy for moving garbage can sized rocks you just cannot push yourself off the road. Always leave home with a full tank of gas. That way should you find the need to take an extended detour, you do not run out in the middle of nowhere. It is about a 120 mile round trip from Eugene.
Expect to get scratches, bumps, and small dents in your vehicle. The roads, particularly gravel, are not maintained well. Thick patches of Scotch broom can be found in several spots, and overhanging salmonberry is a theme throughout. You can usually get through, but expect new blemishes on your vehicle. A car is okay in the summer, but some of the ruts are deep enough on gravel roads that you may scrape bottom. There are plenty of dips and drops even in paved roads that you need to pay attention at all times. Drive slowly. This isn’t a place to find yourself looking at your oil pan in the rear view mirror. I would not take a car in winter if you plan to go off pavement.
I recommend writing down your odometer mileage anytime you come to road junctions once off a main paved road or highway. It is much easier remembering where you were if you keep track of this.
Maps: Maps of the area are greatly lacking. You will end up piecing several maps together and sketching unlisted roads and your own notations on these. The Forest Service has not updated their map since 1996, though some updated black and white ranger district maps are available at their offices. Coos Bay BLM also has not recently updated its map either. I recommend going the following link and downloading the noted maps. These provide the main highways and primary roads to get there. Then rely on topo maps for detail on paved and gravel roads.
http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/TD/TDATA/Pages/gis/countymaps.aspx
Lane County sheet 1&2, Douglas County sheet 1 & 2.
The USGS maps have been updated recently, before that last update in mid 1980s. I prefer the 1980s maps. They show nearly every road; however, new roads have been added since that time, and some of the shown roads may now be impassible due to slides or nature taking over. Granted, I have yet to not find a road where the maps show one did exist. Often the junction is just so overgrown, it is hard to detect.
Topos can be ordered online through the USGS store. More conveniently, the same maps can be downloaded in pdf format. Use the following link. Enter Deer Head Point or Scottsburg, OR in the search bar on the upper left. Then follow the directions on the right. The four useful map names are listed below the link. If you enter in either of the two map names above, you will see the surrounding maps you will want. You will want the 7.5 min topos as they provide the greatest amount of terrain detail. Just be aware that not all the ridges are shown on the topos; many fit between the listed contour elevations. You’ll need to make notes on your own maps.
7.5 min: Smith River Falls, Scottsburg, North Fork, Deer Head Point
Given the undesirable state of maps for the area, I recommend comparing maps with aerial photography. Of course, Google Maps (with the satellite option checked) is extremely useful. As best I can tell, the imaging was taken in late spring/early summer 2012. I also like http://www.midstation.com/topo/, taken between 2009 and 2011. For older imagery, around mid 1990s, check out http://msrmaps.com. For even older aerials, search for them at http://earthexplorer.usgs.gov.
Hiking: Read the links to other blogs above to get a sense of hikers’ experiences. It is rigorous, physically taxing, and challenging. Do not expect to get exactly where you want to go on your first try. Also this is totally off trail. So old elk and bear trails are your friend. Even then these do not always go where you want to go or fade out into nothing. You should estimate hiking speed at about ½ mile per hour. Sometimes it is even half this, rarely faster. I would estimate about ¾ mile per hour for creek walking. In addition, you will find yourself slipping, sliding, and falling down due to the terrain, soil, and flora. If you start to go down, do not fight it, just sit down.
Always go with others, preferably a trio. This isn’t the place to get injured while alone. Pack for an overnight trip even when on a day hike. Include some form of shelter, sleeping bag/quilt, foam/inflatable sleeping pad, stove, and first aid supplies in your kit.
Now for hydration. I take 2 to 3 quarts with me to start. All the major creeks have water throughout the summer. Many of the tributaries dry up in June and do not fill up until late October. The water is generally clear, but given the vast biological activity I treat my water, whether that be filter or AquaMira drops.
Take some gardening type gloves to protect your hands. You’ll be climbing over and under lots of downed trees and branches; weaving through vine maple, rhododendrons, and huckleberry; and blazing trail through salmonberry.
If you choose a route that involves any creek walking, you’ll need some sure footing. I use studs that fishermen (& women) use on their wading boots, but here I put them on bottom of some old hiking shoes or sneakers.
One of the most frequent questions is about GPS. Yes it does work to some extent out there. Depends on getting good signals from the satellites. I use it occasionally to help me navigate. I use my compass and topo maps most of the time. The more I get out in one particular area, the more I just go on memory and by sight. I use GPS mostly at home, looking at where I was and where I should go next time. It can help with general navigation. Rarely will you be walking in a straight line from waypoint to waypoint. Thick brush, drop offs, unlisted small tributaries, and downed trees will cause you to alter your route frequently.
Most people are interested in getting to the actual staircase. I recommend going in early summer, when both the weather is good and the days are long. Plan to make it a two day trip. That way you won’t feel rushed to get there and back in one day. There is no easy way to get to the falls. Some routes are a little easier than others. I will not provide the coordinates for it or a route in. It is a grand adventure and well worth finding on your own, though at times frustrating. It is at least type two, but often type three fun (http://www.dirtbagdiaries.com/fun_divided_by_three).
Seasonal variation: I go anytime of year. My favorites are early fall and late spring. Anytime between late October and early April the understory will be soaked, regardless of how recently it rained. Be prepared to get wet. And by wet, I mean soaked. Bring a dry set of socks and long underwear or shirt to change into before you head back to your vehicle. It too will get wet, but at least you’ll feel more comfortable.
Please feel free to share your outings/adventures here as well.
Squids At A Rave 